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UTICA, NEW YORK

Moss Island Cliffs, Little Falls

Rock Climbing Clinics

First Ascent

Second Ascent

Top Rope Basics

Climbing Guides

Bruce Monroe

 

The Little Falls/ Moss Island climbing area is considered by many to be one of the premier top roping areas in New York state. While locals have climbed at this area longer than any recorded history, the Crag developed significantly in the late 1960's through the early 1990's. Most of the climbs in this area were put up on lead, but the easy access and plentiful anchor possibilities make it the perfect place to set up a top rope. There are 102 recorded climbs on Moss Island and they range in grades from 5.2 to 5.12C. Beginners have plenty of easy to moderate climbs to choose from and even the most experienced climbers have been challenged here. This crag is the perfect place to learn the basics, accommodates large groups well and is ideal for learning top rope anchor setting techniques.

The easy approach, bountiful anchors, and peaceful setting make this cliff one of the premier sites for top roping in all of New York State. There is lead climbing at Little Falls and many top climbers in the region name "Jeff Loves Eileen" as their first ever "time on the sharp end". There is also a plethora of bouldering on the island which makes this area a destination for climbers of all disciplines, ages and abilities. Typically the climbing season here extends into November.

The Little Falls "Moss Island" cliffs were developed for climbing from as early as the 1940's through the 1990's. The "Gneiss" rock that makes up the cliff is one of the hardest rock known which makes for excellent climbing. Moss Island has 102 documented climbs ranging from 5.0 to 5.12C and at least 50% of the routes are in the moderate range making this a prime location for entry level and advanced

 

Nearest EMS retail store Niskayuna, NY (518) 388-2700 Fayetteville, NY (315) 637-9250 Saratoga Springs, NY (518) 580-1505

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Distance to Little Falls

Albany, NY	1 hour 20 minutes	54 miles
Syracuse, NY	1 hour 20 minutes	75 miles
New York, NY	3 hours 55 minutes	220 miles

Directions

From Albany and Points East Take the New York State Thruway (Rt 90) west to exit 29A. Follow the road at the exit (RT 169 north) for approximately 2.2 miles. Look to the left side of the road and you'll see a sign for "Lock 17". ( Note: If you cross over the overpass to Little Falls you've gone too far.)Turn left into the Lock 17 service road and park under the overpass. The Moss Island Cliffs are a short walk over the lock.

From Saratoga, Lake Placid and Points North Take Rt 87 south to exit 1 and pick up the New York State Thruway (Rt 90) west to exit 29A. Follow the road at the exit (RT 169 north) for approximately 2.2 miles. Look to the left side of the road and you'll see a sign for "Lock 17". ( Note: If you cross over the overpass to Little Falls you've gone too far.)Turn left into the Lock 17 service road and park under the overpass. The Moss Island Cliffs are a short walk over the lock.

From Syracuse and Points West Take the New York State Thruway (Rt 90 east) to exit 29A. Follow the road at the exit (RT 169 north) for approximately 2.2 miles. Look to the left side of the road and you'll see a sign for "Lock 17". ( Note: If you cross over the overpass to Little Falls you've gone too far.)Turn left into the Lock 17 service road and park under the overpass. The Moss Island Cliffs are a short walk over the lock.

From Oneonta, Binghampton and Points South Take RT 88 east to exit 21. Take Route 10 north to Canajoharie. Take the New York State Thruway (Rt 90) west to exit 29A. Follow the road at the exit (RT 169 north) for approximately 2.2 miles. Look to the left side of the road and you'll see a sign for "Lock 17". ( Note: If you cross over the overpass to Little Falls you've gone too far.)Turn left into the Lock 17 service road and park under the overpass. The Moss Island Cliffs are a short walk over the lock.