AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

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AMGA SINGLE PITCH INSTRUCTOR COURSE

SPI Course

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is the only nationally and internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program. In 2009 the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program was recognized for meeting the "training standards" of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and was granted the prestigious title of "Approved Association." No other organization in the United States offering training in single pitch terrain can make that claim. Also, the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is recognized by many land managers, insurance companies, other associations and of course the general public. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program has been created to fit in the AMGA Rock Discipline training program, taking off from the AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Program and greatly improving the instructor's skill sets and integrating into the next level of training, the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. The SPI Program curriculum has been designed with this in mind and many of the SPI Program Providers work teaching higher level courses for the AMGA and serve on the AMGA's Technical Committee so they are actively involved in all levels of instructor and guide training in the AMGA.

The program is for current, active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach the rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers that have their own equipment, regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months. Candidates could be current University Professors that teach climbing, Climbing Instructors, Scout Leaders, Summer Camp Professionals or climbers that wish to achieve additional training, experience and certification to gain employment as a Climbing Instructor in the Outdoor Industry. The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting.

For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which is climbed without intermediate belays and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating.

Course Length
The SPI Program is a three-day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI's can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification. Taking any higher level AMGA Course also re-certifies the SPI certifcation for another three years. Exemption from Training

Extremely experienced candidates with many years of climbing experience can apply to the Climbing Instructor Program Director for exemption from training and take the SPI Assessment without completing an SPI Course. Before considering this option one should realize that ongoing training and having a chance to work with your peers in a course environment is invaluable for all instructors at anytime in their instructing career. Skills taught are instructor specific and many topics taught on the class are updated annually as new techniques, equipment and philosophies come to light. In the rare instance that an individual would opt to miss out the AMGA SPI Course, the candidate would apply via email to the AMGA CIP Director stating why you wish to miss the training and challenge the SPI Assessment. The candidate should submit a detailed climbing resume and cover letter explaining your background and why you feel you do not need to attend the SPI Course.

SPI Program Hours and Ratios
The SPI Course is:

	1. A minimum of 27 hours, normally run as three consecutive nine hour days or day classes with evening sessions.
	2. SPI Courses will not exceed a ratio of six students to one current SPI Program Provider.
	3. The maximum number of students on any SPI Program will be twelve.

The SPI Assessment is:

	1. A minimum of 16 hours.
	2. The Assessment should be run over a two day period. Candidates that meet the Assessment pre-requisites can take the Assessment directly following the Course if they desire although this is not recommended.
	3. SPI Assessment will not exceed a ratio of six students to one current SPI Program Provider.
	4. The maximum number of students on any SPI Program will be twelve.

SPI Course Overview
The following three day outline is the standard progression for the SPI Course. Your course may have a different daily schedule and it is acceptable for Program Providers to do this as long as the entire curriculum is covered in your course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum on your course but must not omit pieces. SPI Program providers must make it clear when they are teaching outside the curriculum and should not evaluate beyond the curriculum. The course is normally run over three consecutive nine hour days but as long as all the curriculum is covered over 27 hours the course could be run over separate weekends or even as a semester class.

Day 1

Session 1:	SPI and AMGA Program Overview
Session 2:	Professionalism
Session 3:	Equipment
Session 4:	Knots and Hitches
Session 5:	Belaying
Session 6:	Protection and Anchoring
Session 7:	Teaching
	End of Day Debriefs

Day 2

Session 8:	The Climbing Site
Session 9:	Site Organization and Group Management
Session 10:	Base Managed Sites
Session 11:	Assistance Skills - Base Managed Sites
Session 12:	Programming and Risk Management
	End of Day Debriefs

Day 3

Session 13:	Instructor Demo Lead Climb
Session 14:	Top Managed Sites
Session 15:	Lowering
Session 16:	Assistance Skills - Top Managed Sites
Session 17:	Rappelling
Session 18:	Climbing Movement
Session 19:	Review Sessions
	Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Pre-Requisites for Single Pitch Instructor Course
You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:
Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.

	Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
	Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
	Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
	Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).
	Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.

Gaining SPI Certification
To gain SPI Certification candidates must:

	Successfully pass the SPI Assessment
	Hold current AMGA Membership at Associate level or higher
	Hold current First Aid Certification (see SPI Certification First Aid Requirements)

SPI Certification Upkeep and Recertification
SPI Certification is only valid with current AMGA Membership and valid current First Aid Certification. If you let your either of these lapse your SPI Certification is invalid until you rectify this by updating your AMGA Membership or First Aid Certification. It is your professional responsibility to ensure you have current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.
SPI Certification lasts for three years from the date of assessment. There are two options for renewal:

	1. Certified Single Pitch Instructors can take the two day SPI Assessment to renew their certification.
	2. Certified Single Pitch Instructors who successfully complete any higher level AMGA course is granted SPI certification for three years from the course end date. After completing a course please contact the AMGA so they can update your records.

To keep SPI Certification current SPI's should seek out recertification before the expiration date of their certification. Candidates that let their certification lapse can take part in the SPI Assessment but they will not hold any certification between their SPI expiration date and successfully passing an SPI Assessment. From a professional standpoint this is not advisable.

SPI Certification First Aid Requirements
First aid training is not required to take the course or assessment. For the Single Pitch Instructor certification to be valid the AMGA requires you hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in. If you let your medical certification lapse, your AMGA SPI Certification is invalid. It is the responsibility of the individual to maintain appropriate medical certification.

Does Not Include

Students will be expected to arrive dressed appropriately for the weather. Pack a lunch and snacks for the day. Water bottle should be filled before arriving.

1) Lodging

2) Meals

3) Transportation

4) Personal gear and clothing

5) Personal climbing gear (full rack)